The Ultimate Guide to Derma Rolling

Skincare is the new cool now. Gone are the days when having a rough and tough look was considered cute. This time and age is all about self-care and appreciating your own body. And by skincare, we do not mean simply washing your face with a face wash.

Your face is the first thing you’ll see in the morning. You’ll instantly notice a new pimple breaking out or an older one that you scratched unintentionally. You’ll also pat yourself if your skin looks healthier than before. You do this self-inspection unknowingly whenever you see your face in the mirror. Sometimes you vow to yourself that you’ll start your skincare routine, but then the laziness gets the better of you.

Following a skincare routine can be challenging. It requires dedication and also a good amount of money. “Skincare is expensive. Don’t touch my face” is actually very accurate. The serums, creams, and other accessories do cost a lot. Once you have started a suitable routine, you will love yourself even more. In fact, if you want more efficient results, you might want to change the whole game.

Getting facial treatments from the salons is a good idea for a pampering session. It gives you some time of relaxation from a tiring day. On the other hand, sessions like these can be on the upper side of your budget. Many women (and men) lose the motivation to take care of themselves just because of money. To overcome such situations, experts have come up with various DIY techniques that are cost-effective and easy to use. One such process is called Derma Rolling.

What is Derma Rolling?

The Ultimate Guide to Derma Rolling

Derma rolling involves puncturing your skin with hundreds of tiny needles. It might sound painful, but you should learn all about it before making a final decision. The DIY tool for doing derma rolling at home looks similar to the roller used for painting walls, except that it has micro-sized needles attached with it. The roller is moved on the face in specific directions to ensure it works properly.

Now to a more scientific explanation. Derma rolling is all about inserting needles in your skin like acupuncture, but the purpose is a bit different. The needles on the roller inflict tiny wounds on your skin. The depth of these wounds varies with the size of the needles. These wounds alert the skin cells to make them act as if the skin needs healing. It actively secretes collagen and elastin proteins to recover the skin.

Collagen and Elastin

Collagen is the natural protein that keeps our skin healthy and stretchy. It makes up three-quarters of our skin and a third of the entire protein present in our body. Apart from skin, collagen is found between joints, blood, and muscles. 

After the age of 20, the production of collagen is decreased by 1% every year. That is why you start noticing signs of aging as your skin loses the already present collagen. To overcome that, many people take supplements to look young and healthy.

Elastin, on the other hand, is the protein that keeps the skin in its original shape. Once stretched, the skin gets back to its place due to this protein. Elastin is far more flexible than collagen, but its function is limited to the surface only. Meanwhile, collagens are more focused on connecting tissues and internal skin repair.

The process of derma rolling involves triggering the production of both these proteins. If done right, derma rolling can do wonders to your skin.

Benefits of Derma Rolling

The Ultimate Guide to Derma Rolling

So why do people actually inflict such torture on their skin? The answer lies in the method on which derma rolling works. With time, our skin gets all kinds of nasty things. Pimples, acne, and scars are only to name a few. To fix these issues, dermatologists prescribe medicines and ointments. But the key to healthy and flawless skin is to take care of it with a consistent routine.

In case you haven’t paid much attention to your face and now regret all the acne scars and blemishes you’ve got, a derma roller is the best option for you. It helps in:

Derma Rolling vs. Micro-Needling

The Ultimate Guide to Derma Rolling

Micro-needling is another name for derma roller with a slight difference. While derma rolling can be done at home by your own hands, micro-needling requires professional help. It is done with a derma pen that has needles at one end. The needles move up and down, going in the skin. 

The purpose of micro-needling is the same as that of derma rolling. The only difference is the tool that is used. The size of the needles may also vary as micro-needling uses slightly larger needles.

Needle Sizes

Now that you are well aware of the basics of derma rolling, it is time for you to know the specifics. As explained earlier, derma rolling involves microneedles. The tools come in different needle sizes depending on the user’s requirements. What size is beneficial for what skin issue – this is the real question here.

Following is the breakdown of skin problems and what needle length is good for them:

  • Shallow acne scars – 1.0mm
  • Deep acne scars – 1.5mm
  • Open pores – 0.25mm to 0.5mm
  • Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation – 0.25mm to 0.5mm
  • Skin Discoloration – 0.2mm to 1.0mm
  • Suntanned or saggy skin – 0.5mm to 1.5mm
  • Stretch Marks – 1.5mm to 2.0mm
  • Surgical scars – 1.5mm
  • Uneven skin tone – 0.5mm
  • Wrinkles – 0.5mm to 1.5mm

Keep in mind that you should always start with the smallest size where a range of sizes is mentioned. Also, the use of various sized needles depends on the severity of the skin issue. For example, if the wrinkles are deeper, they’ll require a larger needle. Similarly, darker acne spots can be fixed with bigger needles.

How to Use a Derma Roller

The Ultimate Guide to Derma Rolling

Following is a step-by-step guide for using a derma roller at home:

Disinfecting

The first and the most crucial step is to take proper care of your tools. The needles need to be absolutely clean. This is done to ensure that the needles don’t infect the skin when inserted. 

Start by soaking the derma roller into 70% isopropyl alcohol. You will be tempted to use a 99% solution, but it won’t do you any good. The 70% alcohol evaporates more slowly, giving it more time to kill the germs.

Cleansing

It is vital to prep your skin before starting the derma rolling process. You cannot do it on dry skin. Cleanse your face with a light pH cleanser and wash it with normal water.

If you are using needle sizes greater than 0.5mm, you’ll have to wipe your face with 70% isopropyl alcohol too. Again, this is to avoid infections as it might draw blood.

Anesthesia

For first-time users or people with low pain tolerance, it is advised to apply a numbing cream first. Also, needle sizes above 1.0mm draw blood for sure. For that, you will definitely need a numbing cream.

Derma Rolling

This step marks the beginning of the actual derma rolling process:

Section Your Face

Divide your face into four sections either by a non-permanent marker or just imagine it in your head. Do NOT try anything in the eye socket area. 

Movements

Take your roller and gently put it on your face. The width of the roller defines the first area where the roller will move. For each site, you will have to move the roller 6 to 8 times. You must never make to and fro motions while derma rolling. Move the roller in one direction, i.e., vertical, pick up the roller, and start from the bottom again. Once the area is done, move over the roller slightly and repeat the process.

Once you are done with one direction (vertical), it is now time to do it in the other direction (horizontal). Repeat the same steps, covering each area 6 to 8 times. So in total, you will move the derma roller over every area 12 to 16 times. We don’t advise you to go for diagonal movements. It may cause deeper wounds that will take to recover.

After Derma Rolling

You will feel a burning sensation in your skin which is normal. Wash your face with plain water, and don’t wipe it with anything. Let the skin dry and continue with your basic skincare routine.

Cleaning the Roller

Before stashing it away, you need to clean the roller. We advise that you soak it in a detergent solution or a dish soap. This is done because detergents can easily clean blood drops on the needles. Disinfect the roller with 70% isopropyl again and dry it thoroughly before packing it in its case.

The Post-Derma Rolling Routine

The whole purpose of derma rolling is to heal the skin and to improve its overall texture. The tiny wounds created after the process enhance the production of good protein and boost the absorption of your skincare products. 

It is highly recommended to follow your basic skincare routine after a derma rolling session. Keep in mind that you should never apply anything strong or with chemical exfoliates. Preferably, you should go for products that are rich in ascorbic acid. Serums like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are a favorite among skin experts.

Aftermath

The entire process of derma rolling can be a little painful. Since hundreds of needles are inserted into your skin, it is obvious that you will feel some discomfort. Your skin will feel as if it has just witnessed a sunburn and followed by a slight swelling. Enhanced blood circulation can be explained as a pulsing sensation. 

The redness and swelling will fade away in a day at max. Sometimes, the redness persists, and the skin starts flaking. If that happens, leave your skin alone and avoid touching it at all. 

The Dos and Don’ts

The derma rolling process is pretty easy, and you can do it at home by yourself. But there are a few things that you need to be careful about. 

  • Do not press too hard while rolling. This is not the time to act brave and try to endure pain more than you should. 
  • Avoid to and fro motion. If not, your skin will look like it has been clawed by a wild animal.
  • Using vitamin C serums (ascorbic acid) should be done with care. It can be harsh on the skin if you use it just before or right after rolling. It is better to use vitamin C two to three days before your intended derma rolling session.
  • Never use strong products after rolling. Gentle and pH-balanced products are always recommended.
  • Before buying a roller, make sure that you are investing in the correct size. A larger needle size can be harmful to your skin.
  • Do not start a session if your previous wounds are not healed. Let your skin recover completely before beginning a new session.
  • Cleaning the roller properly after every session should be your top priority. A nicely kept roller can last up to six months. Otherwise, the needles will get blunt fast, and you won’t be able to use them to their fullest.
  • Replace the roller if you feel that the needles have gone blunt or if it is getting rusty.

How Often to Do It?

Derma rolling is easy and convenient, but like any other skincare routine, you should not overdo it in hopes of getting faster results. Also, the length of the needles plays an important role in giving the results and how often you should do it:

  • 0.25 mm – alternate days
  • 0.5 mm – 1 to 3 times a week
  • 1.0 mm – once every 10 to 14 days
  • 1.5 mm – once every 3 to 4 weeks
  • 2.0 mm – every 6 weeks

The Results

The process of derma rolling takes time. It is not something that will give you magical results overnight. With consistent sessions, you can notice improvements in your skin. For example, by using a 0.25mm needle roller, you will see results after 2 to 3 sessions. Studies have shown that you can see a major difference in your skin within a year of derma rolling sessions. Usually, the difference will be visible if the skin issue is not severe.

Our Top Picks for Derma Rollers

The derma rolling process depends greatly on the quality and size of the needles. The process itself is easy enough to do at home but what product to choose is the real question. Enlisted below are our top picks for the best derma rolling kits out there. Some of these are recommended by the dermatologists too: 

Product
Visual
Where to Buy
BeautyBio GloPro Microneedling Regeneration Tool
Sdara Skincare Microneedle Derma Roller
Skincare Microneedling Kit by Linduray
StackedSkincare Micro Roller
Lolysenta Dema Roller
Thappink Derma Roller
Dermaroll by Prosper Beauty
RoselynBotique Derma Roller for Beard
YaFex 6 in 1 Derma Rolling Kit
Witty Derma Roller Skincare Kit


1. BeautyBio GloPro Microneedling Regeneration Tool


This beautiful derma roller comes with 540 stainless steel needles. It promises a painless procedure that is sure to give excellent results. The best feature of this product is the embedded red light. Doctors suggest that red light treatment is good for reducing the redness and calming the burning sensation of the skin after the session.

The tool comes with an attachment head, five prep pads, a power cord adapter, and an empty sanitizing bottle. You can also choose to buy related pH-balanced facial cleansers, serum, and other gentle products by BeautyBio to use after a derma rolling session.

2. Sdara Skincare Microneedle Derma Roller


Sdara Microneedle derma roller is considered by many to be the best tool for treating acne scars. Its needles are made of titanium, a more effective and sturdy material than stainless steel. 

The price of this highly praised item is also the factor that makes it a best seller. Those who have used it are convinced that you don’t need to spend hundreds of dollars to get good results. The Sdara Microneedle derma roller is truly the best choice to overcome the problem of dark acne spots and open pores. It is often bought together with a vitamin c or antiaging serum.

3. Skincare Microneedling Kit by Linduray


This micro needle derma roller by Linduray is the perfect choice for people with sensitive skin. The thought of poking your skin with so many needles can be daunting itself. For people with sensitive skin, the fear gets double. The tool is exceptionally painless and works like a charm on the skin. You don’t have to apply force to get the work done. The tiny titanium needles are durable enough to perform even through a beard.

4. StackedSkincare Micro Roller


For skin that is heavily affected by fine lines and wrinkles, experts recommend using stainless steel needles. The StackedSkin micro derma roller fits the criteria perfectly. Its 0.2mm needles actively stimulate the collagen, resulting in reduced wrinkles. Your skin will feel fresh and plumped after a few sessions. It also works well for acne scars.

This derma roller is often paired with hyaluronic serum and vitamin C serum for best results. 

5. Lolysenta Dema Roller


A jack of all trades, the Lolysenta derma roller is good for all skin types. It compliments every skincare routine. Its fine 0.25mm needles help your skin in better absorption of the skincare products. It also gently enhances the production of elastin and collagen in your skin. 

The kit also includes a user manual and a case for the derma roller.

6. Thappink Derma Roller


Reviewed as an extremely effective derma roller, the Thappink derma roller is no less than a high-end product. It consists of 540 1.5mm needles that are perfect for reducing stretch marks and stimulate hair growth. It means that this product can safely be used on the head and other body parts as well. 

The easy-to-use roller comes with an instructions manual. You can also buy a couple of serums to enhance the results after every session.

7. Dermaroll by Prosper Beauty


If you are someone who gets lazy at the thought of buying a new product or replacing the previous one, this product is just the right one for you. The Dermaroll comes with four replaceable heads – one attached and three extra. Each head has 600, 0.25mm needles that are easy to roll over the skin. What’s more is that you can also buy individual heads instead of buying the whole kit. 

The titanium needles do their job of making the skin healthy very well without letting you fuss over replacements. All in all, it is an excellent tool for hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and open pores. 

8. RoselynBotique Derma Roller for Beard


Made for newbies, the RoselynBotique Derma Roller is an easy-to-use tool. The 540 titanium needles are everything you need to stimulate hair growth and the production of good proteins under your skin. It gets you instant results, and you can do your DIY sessions at home without spending a ton of money.

9. YaFex 6 in 1 Derma Rolling Kit


This derma roller is a luxury for people who want everything in one product. The YaFex kit comes with three-needle heads, one stamp head, one silicone face cleaning brush, and a case for the roller. The needle heads vary in the number of needles. The biggest head has 1,200 needles that are perfect for the body and head. The middle-sized one has 750 needles, making it useful for the face and neck. The smallest one with 300 needles can be rolled over the nose. The stamp head has 12 needles that can be used in narrow areas.

The overall performance of this derma roller is amazing. Moreover, the variety of needle sizes give the user the freedom to choose the right number of needles for their skin.

10. Witty Derma Roller Skincare Kit


The Witty Skincare kit can be a perfect gift for all skincare enthusiasts. It comes with a roller head comprising 540 titanium needles of the size 0.3mm, which are more effective than 0.25mm needles. The kit also includes a Botanical face serum that can be used after a derma rolling session to get the best results. Two helpful eBooks and a storage case are also included. All items are packed in a beautiful gift box to seal the deal.

Conclusion

You will hardly achieve anything in life if you are not consistent enough. Derma rolling is one such routine that you can quickly adapt to within the comfort of your home. You won’t even need another person to help you with it. Compared to salon-level skincare sessions, derma rolling is highly cost-effective. A roller costs you somewhere between $20 and $200, depending on the brand. They are easy to replace and promise great results after every session.